Cute idea but honestly her axe is a lot better for woodcutting than the hatchet you made.
I understand you're trying to modernize it but as someone who's chopped plenty of firewood in his day, What you've made would break in two swings.
First issue, The handle is too thin: When you have a twig holding up a lump of metal? the twig is gonna break.
Second issue, the rigidity: Your handle is too straight. a proper axe handle is made from the inner wood of a thick branch or tree. The grain (the lines in the wood) all go from the base to the tip, and the handle is curved somewhat like Robin's original axe in order to Both absorb shock from the impact so it doesn't snap the axe on a single strike. As well as keep it from buzzing in your hands every swing. The curve is very very important.
Third and Final issue: Robin's a carpenter. Her original axe is a splitting axe. It's meant for splitting along the grain of wood. The axe you've made is a felling axe where it's cutting into the wood across the grain. While modern splitting axes 'are' designed to be similar to felling axes. I can tell you with quite a bit of confidence that her original axe avoids one of the big problems modern axes have, and that's they get too wide after a certain point and stop cutting and instead push the wood apart. her axe is designed to cut only what she wants to cut. It's a very practical style for someone who uses hand tools to assemble buildings. A good axe is just as good as a saw in the right hands.
I know this is nitpicky but I'm just pointing out issues and explaining the why's behind them to educate not berate. By all means stick with the new axe head you've designed. It would still get the job done despite not being as precise. But you should swap in the original axe's handle instead, or at least a curved and thicker design.
I also appreciate the info about axes. However, the original Lost Axe sprite has always looked like a toothbrush to me! xD So, thanks Illogical for letting me see an axe that's recognizable as an axe :)
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I understand you're trying to modernize it but as someone who's chopped plenty of firewood in his day, What you've made would break in two swings.
First issue, The handle is too thin: When you have a twig holding up a lump of metal? the twig is gonna break.
Second issue, the rigidity: Your handle is too straight. a proper axe handle is made from the inner wood of a thick branch or tree. The grain (the lines in the wood) all go from the base to the tip, and the handle is curved somewhat like Robin's original axe in order to Both absorb shock from the impact so it doesn't snap the axe on a single strike. As well as keep it from buzzing in your hands every swing. The curve is very very important.
Third and Final issue: Robin's a carpenter. Her original axe is a splitting axe. It's meant for splitting along the grain of wood. The axe you've made is a felling axe where it's cutting into the wood across the grain. While modern splitting axes 'are' designed to be similar to felling axes. I can tell you with quite a bit of confidence that her original axe avoids one of the big problems modern axes have, and that's they get too wide after a certain point and stop cutting and instead push the wood apart. her axe is designed to cut only what she wants to cut. It's a very practical style for someone who uses hand tools to assemble buildings. A good axe is just as good as a saw in the right hands.
I know this is nitpicky but I'm just pointing out issues and explaining the why's behind them to educate not berate. By all means stick with the new axe head you've designed. It would still get the job done despite not being as precise. But you should swap in the original axe's handle instead, or at least a curved and thicker design.
So, thanks Illogical for letting me see an axe that's recognizable as an axe :)